Monday, 16 April 2012

"Qu'ils mangent de la brioche"


If I’m totally honest, I wasn’t particularly fussed about what living in France with French bread on my doorstep every day meant when I first moved here. To my utter shame, I spent most of my first term buying sliced bread; walking past the beautiful “Pavé Nature”, baguettes and similarly delicious bread on offer that had just been taken from the oven, heading instead for Harry’s American Sandwich Pain de Mie (wholewheat, I’m not an animal). That surely is grounds to chuck me out of the country. Like all sorts of things about life down here – beautiful weather, going for dinner at 10pm, sitting at a café that’s spilling out onto the streets – I’ve only really started appreciating French bread in the past few months. For a mere 29 cents, you can buy a demi baguette; and okay, if you leave it overnight it’ll be rock-solid and will cover your floor with breadcrumbs if you try to slice it – but surely that’s just further incentive to make sure you eat all of that baguette in one day. Challenge accepted. It is more expensive to buy a demi-baguette every day or a fresh loaf every week than it is to buy sliced bread – but there is a massive difference, and you know what? I’m willing to pay that little bit more every day for the two months I’ve got here.

Maybe it’s because it’s because we non-French have this stereotypical image of a French person in a striped Breton top with a silly moustache carrying a baguette under their arm – but bread seems to be as much a part of the way of life here as passive smoking and striking. Coming back from the supermarket on the tram, I heard two ladies grumbling about how the price of a baguette had gone up three cents since last week, whilst a guy in his twenties ripped massive chunks of bread from the baguette in his shopping bag and ate, head nodding in time to the music he was listening to. Any given shopping trolley will contain at least one baguette, and even the cheapest restaurant will bring you a basket of bread that will be refilled whenever it looks like it’s running low absolutely free of charge. The idea that you might have to ask for bread in a restaurant– and then pay for it – is utterly horrifying to a French person. For added shock, I suggest you also add that very few places will bring a bottle of water to your table, and only reluctantly after trying to sell you a very expensive bottle of mineral water.

No matter how you slice it (oh I’m so funny), bread is incredibly important to the French, and why on earth shouldn’t it be? Got some sauce left on your plate? Mop it up with your bread. Can’t be bothered to wash your only knife? Use your bread to push it onto your fork. Fingers a bit greasy from the olive oil on your salad dressing? Bread napkin. Need to soak up some of your Merlot? Bread. Just want to eat bread? Bread. Good luck being gluten-intolerant down here, folks.

What I’m really trying to say is – the bread in France is amazing in a way that I cannot fully explain; and the way it is entrenched in French culture only serves to ensure that it stays that way. And thank goodness for that. Forget Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité – the French motto should be Vive les boulangères et vive le pain.

Wednesday, 28 March 2012

Ratatouille

I'm about as good at eating my vegetables as I am at updating this blog: sometimes, I'm all about making sure I get my 5 a day, and sometimes I sort of... forget.

It's a lot easier now it's heading towards summer and the idea of salad is particularly appealing, but last week my friend Ellen cooked for me in a bid to get shot of her vegetables before she went off for her weekend in Paris (lucky thing). It was based off a Turkish dish, but essentially what it amounted to was ratatouille with chorizo and couscous, and it was delicious. As I was doing my food shop this week, I thought to myself, why not make that? It's quick, it's simple, it's cheap, and it's delicious. Basically, it's everything I want when I'm cooking. Plus, it's easy to make extra so you have another meal or two already made!

So make it I did. There are probably as many different recipes for ratatouille as there are people who eat it, but this is how I made it.

1. Chop up a red pepper, an aubergine, a courgette, half a large onion and two cloves of garlic, and add to a big saucepan (a casserole-style pot would be perfect).
2. Heat this for about five minutes on the hob - this helps to soften the aubergine and courgette, and makes space for the next step!
3. Add a tin of chopped tomatoes, a little bit of water and bring to the boil, then put a lid over it and let simmer for another 5-10 minutes.
4. For the meat-eaters, whilst the ratatouille is simmering away, chop up some chorizo into rounds (the ready-cooked type), and heat in a frying pan. Once it's golden and slightly softened, tip into the pan and stir through - try to get as much of the oil that comes out of the sausages into the ratatouille for an added paprika kick.

And that's it! I'd reckon that will make between 3 and 4 portions' worth (not including the chorizo), depending on how hungry you are. The last thing to do is to make the couscous, which is perhaps the easiest thing ever, particularly when you do it my way. I know you can make it on the hob but this is much easier.

1. Take a mug.
2. Boil the kettle.
3. Fill your mug with as much or as little couscous as you want.
4. Pour boiling water over the couscous - the optimum amount is so that the water level is just a fraction over the couscous. Too much and it'll be watery, too little and it'll be dry.
5. Put a lid over the mug to trap the steam.
6. Take the lid off after about 2 minutes and fluff up with a fork.
7. Add butter if wanted.

Couscous added to ratatouille is perfect as it soaks up all that yummy liquid, and some salad because... well because why not?


Possibly the healthiest meal I've eaten since I got here - the only 'naughty' bits would be the sausages, the tiny bit of butter I added to the couscous and the dressing on the salad. And, I've got leftovers that will do for later in the week.

Bon appetit!

Monday, 12 March 2012

Wining and dining.

Firstly, please accept my deepest apologies for such a long break between posts! The past month has been somewhat of a whirlwind: between trains from Reading to Exeter, Exeter to Cheltenham, and a plane from Gatwick to Montpellier (all in the name of doing justice to my 21st celebrations!) it's been a bit overwhelming and I've barely had time to think of a post to write - especially as I have done virtually no cooking over the past month or so! It's mostly been meals out which, I hasten to add, I am not complaining about! Far from it, in fact. So, in light of this (and also because I'm unlikely to have such a run of meals out for quite some time now!), here is a little summary of lovely restaurants I have had the joy of going to in the past month.

First meal out was to Bill's Café in Reading with my former housemate Georgia (of Great Cupcake Trail fame). It's a chain, but not one with branches all over the country so it still manages to retain a fairly individual appeal. The food was beautiful - Georgia had a chicken and chorizo burger and I eventually decided on a normal burger, mostly because their skin-on chips came so highly recommended! It was absolutely delicious and very filling, but I just about managed to make room for their vanilla pannacotta (and I was very glad I did too). It was a fairly reasonable meal, coming to about £20 a head for drinks, bread, main and pudding. The appeal of Bill's is that as well as being a café, they also sell some really lovely produce - perfect for the foodie in your life. Georgia went for a veritable brick of chocolate that's designed to be melted to be hot chocolate. Unsurprisingly, I didn't get a look in! I bought my mum a jar of sloe gin and gooseberry jam, partially because as a family we are partial to a good G&T, partially because my mother is a long-time fan of gooseberries, but mostly because it was such an unusual combination that I'd never seen before.

The next meal out was to a lovely vegetarian place called The Plant Café in Exeter when I went to visit an old schoolfriend who's studying down there. I had an absolutely gorgeous tomato, pesto and goat's cheese tart which seemed a bit pricey at just over £7 - but then the waitress brought it out and I saw the mix of salads they'd piled alongside and suddenly £7 didn't seem too unreasonable! Lentil salad, couscous, lettuce leaves - if someone had told me that eating vegetables could mean this, it wouldn't have taken me so long to warm up to the idea of them! The café is in a prime spot, just along the Cathedral Green, and I'm sure it'd be lovely to sit outside when the weather is warmer, but our napkins and bits of salad were flying away with the February breeze so we retreated to the warmth of the café pretty sharpish!

Once I got back to Cheltenham and took my friend out for her first Nando's (and she calls herself a student...), I was determined that I'd make it to my favourite restaurant in town, Storyteller. It's sort of become a tradition for my parents and I to go there every year for my birthday, and while that could be a bit tedious, they change the menu often enough that, while theoretically you could have the same thing every time, there's always something new on offer. I was brave and went for a rabbit casserole, which was really delicious but a bit of faff to make sure all the little bones were removed, followed by a zingy lemon tart. There's a reason I ask to go back there every year.

After a few days at home, it was time for the parents and I to head down to Montpellier again, and you couldn't have asked for more of a difference in the weather. The first meal we had was at Hippo, which is a fairly popular 'steakhouse' chain in France - but don't be fooled, the number of locations in no way means that the quality is anything other than superb. Even better (in my father's eyes, anyway), sides and sauces are 'à volonté', so you can just keep ordering chips, ratatouille, green beans, baked potatoes and sauces until you explode! Sometimes it's nice to know that there's a failsafe place you can go for when you can't be bothered or don't have the time to explore the independent restaurants. We went back there on the Sunday afternoon before my parents flew back home.

We seemed to accidentally return to the places we'd been to in August, but such is the joy of the French restaurant - they rarely keep the menu the same over the seasons. After being slightly disappointed that so few restaurants in Antigone, the area where my parents' hotel was situated, were open due to the school winter holidays, we ventured into the town and returned to 'Andromaque', a restaurant we'd enjoyed back in August. It was lovely then to sit outside, and it was lovely in February to sit inside! As it's in the old town, the dining room was underground, and the vaulted ceilings were lit beautifully. Far from being cold and harsh, the soft armchairs made it feel welcoming and the three of us felt like it would be far too easy to just fall asleep after dinner! I had a goat's cheese salad to start, followed by a lovely fillet of salmon with a gorgeous risotto. Pudding was absolutely heaven - a salted caramel 'moelleux' that just oozed caramel when you touched a fork to it and tasted like a melted Daim bar.

The next day we set off to explore Nimes, a Roman town just half an hour's train ride from Montpellier. After trying to remember my way around from my whistlestop tour earlier this year, we ended up picking a fairly innocuous-looking café-patisserie purely out of hunger and relative proximity to where we were. What a fantastic choice we made. The confit du canard I had just fell off the bone, but what was more delicious was the pudding. As part of the lunchtime 'prix fixe' menu, one of the options was a 'patisserie du choix'. Looking through the list of what they could potentially offer, I immediately set my heart on something called 'cacaoyer'. It sounded divine - standard patisserie sponge base, chocolate mousse, salted caramel ganache (can you tell I'm on a salted caramel kick?), more chocolate nom - I don't remember what it was called exactly - and then dusted with cocoa. In case you didn't have enough chocolate. As we went to order, the waitress suggested we take a look at what patisseries they had on offer, so my father and I did as we were told. Mum had been fixed on a café gourmand - something of a phenomenon in French restaurants, where they give you an espresso and a selection of mini-puddings that can range from miniatures of the puddings they have on offer to teeny tiny little macaroons and madeleines. The inside was something to behold - it looked like they'd kept the interior pretty much as it was when it was first opened in 1850, with gold moldings and an beautiful mirror from wall-to-wall that reflected the most incredble selection of patisseries I'd ever seen - and yes, my 'cacaoyer' was there, and it was indeed the amazing-looking thing (there are no words to describe it) that had been brought to the gentleman at the table next to me. If I thought there were no words to describe it, that's nothing compared to my attempts to describe how it tasted. As if my parents were going to get so much as a crumb - that baby was all mine and my goodness was it good.


On the last night my parents had down with me, we were all a bit undecided as to where we wanted to go. We looked at a seafood restaurant nearby, but it was quite expensive and nothing really grabbed any of us; the creperie was full; the other creperie (one we'd been to in August and thoroughly enjoyed) was also full - so we went back to another restaurant we'd tried in August - Les Orchis, which is for some odd reason both a restaurant and florist. As you do. Despite not seeing anything that I liked the sound of in the seafood restaurant, I ended up having a very fishy dinner. Smoked salmon with a coconut pannacotta-ish thing to start, followed by whole sea bream. I was so sure I'd have beef, or lamb - until the waiter came around and I heard myself ordering 'le dorade'. It was a brave choice for me, as it involved removing the bones which I'd never attempted before, but it was definitely worth the effort. Pudding was a café gourmand, which I remembered as being fantastic the previous time we'd been there and definitely fell into the 'mini-puddings' category. A tiny tiramisu, a mini-mousse and an amazingly chocolately chocolate pot, rounded off by an espresso.

Which brings us to a few Tuesday nights ago, and the (civilised) celebration of my 21st birthday. Myself and three friends went to 'Bistrot de l'Ancien Courier', which I'd enjoyed back in August, quelle surprise, and which offers a reasonable prix fixe menu - any starter, main and pudding for €18.80. It being my 21st, I had a kir imperial (which was cava instead of champagne but let's not split hairs), as an aperitif. For the food, I had a lovely saumon mariné which was served with a honey and ginger dressing, a wonderful combination. Ellen had chevre chaud on gingerbread and pears, which was delicious from what I tried. For the main, it was the classic cuisse de canard, another beautiful duck which just slid off the bone and finally, pain perdu with salted caramel (my old favourite) and ice cream made from almond milk. After devouring the meal, faffing about with the bill (I'd like to apologise to the poor waitress who had to scoop up three euros' worth of 10 and 20 cent coins) and eventually rolling out of the door, we headed to our old favourite bar, Rebuffy, to grab a coffee and talk about the plans for the second, less sophisticated part of my 21st birthday without feeling like we were bringing down the tone of the location too much. It was a lovely way to spend my birthday, made even sweeter by the fact that the three of them had bought me a beautiful bouquet of carnations - and a single red rose. Say what you like about them, they're not so bad when it comes to it.

Friday, 10 February 2012

The Great Cupcake Trail of 2012

Some months ago, whilst I was in France and my former housemate Georgia was in Reading, we were sharing our mutual appreciation for those things cake, iced and delicious - the (not so humble) cupcake. Jokingly, we suggested a tour of the cupcakeries in London once we were back in the same country.

Well yesterday, we did just that.

After much research (Googling 'Best cupcakes in London' and drawing up a list), planning (Picking which bakeries and in what order), and organisation ('Thursday good?' 'Yep'), the day of The Great Cupcake Trail of 2012 dawned.



Thursday, 26 January 2012

Change of plans

I was going to make a post about the frankly epic tortilla I made for lunch yesterday but then, halfway through my last lecture of the day, as I was planning the post instead of paying attention, I got a text from my friend saying that she was currently in A&E with another friend who was waiting to be taken in for a scan. Much as I wanted to rush straight there and help, I knew that there was little I could do because they were both waiting for news from the doctor, so I (guiltily) continued my plans for the rest of the afternoon - finished the lecture, went to a café to work for an hour or so and then called into the supermarket to pick up some neccessities.

Once I got back, I found out that they were in the hospital just opposite my halls so no sooner had I got in and unpacked my stuff than I was out the door again to see how he was doing. The answer? Very, very hungry. Once he was released, the three of us headed back into town to get a nice meal - a reward for the two of them for hanging about in a hospital for the best part of seven hours.

After much deliberating and wandering about the Old Town, we ended up back at the first restaurant we'd looked at, and one we'd been to back in October when a friend came to visit.

Called the "Tire-Bouchon" (that's "corkscrew" for my non-Francophone readers), they do a couple of really fantastic value "formules". Ellen and I went for their "Formule brasserie" which gives you a starter, main and a pudding for €18.90. You don't have much to choose from, but what is on offer is fabulous. Last time, I was brave and had "saumon tartare" as my starter, followed by the classic confit du canard. This time, I opted for their selection of cold meats (pâté, salami and prosciutto ham); followed by cassoulet and then a crême brûlée. Some things never change.

The starter was faultless, it's hard to really mess up three types of meat arranged artfully on a slate after all; but the main was incredible. Really rich and filling with beautiful duck that just fell off the bone. If I'd had room, I definitely would have mopped up the sauce with the bread that was freely coming to us - but I was getting full and needed to have space for my pudding!

It perhaps wasn't the situation I'd imagined when I thought about going out for a meal with friends (you can't plan for everything, after all), but the reasons behind the meal didn't stop it from being a very enjoyable evening with good food, cheap wine and hilarious (if somewhat inappropriate) conversation.

Monday, 23 January 2012

Home comforts

I think everyone who's spent any time away from home has something that, if they make it, reminds them of home. For me, that's mashed potato.

I know, I know. Of all the fantastic food Britain has to offer (roast dinners! fish and chips! marmite!), and I pick the humble spud. Well you see, the reason lies in the fact that my dad makes, to my mind, the best mashed potato. Ever. It's creamy, it's buttery, it's smooth without being that odd, whipped texture of the mash we used to get in the States - frankly, it's perfect. With spring onion stirred through it to make champ, or used to mop up sauce - I love, love, love mashed potatoes.

Obviously, there's only so much "mashing" you can do when all you have is a knife and fork, but I refused to go the pretentious route and just call it "crushed new potatoes" and be done with it. It was mash or nothing. So that's what I had. I'd apologise for there not being a picture, but there's a limit to how attractive you can make a plate full of mash, sausages and tomato sauce look. That and I ate pretty much all of it before I even entertained the notion of taking a photo of it. If you really wanted, you could have a picture of my smug face after having eaten it because I am feeling very very smug. As I wrote on a friend's facebook:
"Just had mashed potato as part of my dinner. There are no words to express how happy I am right now."

Saturday, 21 January 2012

An old favourite

I think one of my favourite spices would have to be cinnamon. It's an incredibly versatile flavour that lends itself as well to savoury dishes as it does to sweet dishes. There is something very indulgent-feeling about it, and for me it brings back wonderful memories of Cinnabon from when I lived in the States. It's also very yummy added to hot chocolate on a cold winter night!

I've been having a very cinnamon-y few days recently thanks to my lovely little cake pops - which did make sobbing whilst watching Sherlock more bearable, even if I was afraid to look away from the screen just for the second it would take to grab one off the plate by my hand!

But the actual reason why I bought myself some cinnamon (canelle in French, in case you're ever in France and in need of cinnamon) was to make an old favourite of mine - cinnamon chicken.



I think the first time I had it was when I was probably only 8 or 9, and I can still remember thinking then, wow. Now, given that I'm turning 21 in a month and a half and it still rates pretty highly on my favourite meals list, I'd say that it's a fairly successful recipe!

Making it is simplicity itself, and it's just as easy to make for 4 people as it is for one - I work on the basis of one red onion and one chicken breast per person, and then as much cinnamon as you like. The recipe says that you need 1.5 tsp of cinnamon to do enough for 4, but I like my cinnamon so I don't worry too much about being particularly scientific about it. The soft brown sugar you add at the end is the same principle - again, they estimate 1 heaped tablespoon for four people, so if I'm only making enough for myself, I just pour in "some" and leave it at that. Because I'm feeling particularly generous, I'll even give you the recipe so you can make this delicious meal for yourself.

To serve 4
1. Peel and slice 4 red onions into thick rings and put into a saucepan or casserole dish with 4 chicken breasts (boneless chicken thighs work just as well too) and 75g of butter.
2. Add 1.5 tsp of cinnamon and 150ml of water to the pan, then season.
3. Heat gently until the butter has melted, then bring to the boil, cover the pan and simmer for 5 minutes.
4. Add 1 rounded tbsp of soft brown sugar, and keep on a low heat until the chicken is cooked, checking often that the sugar hasn't caught.
5. Once the chicken has cooked, if the sauce looks a bit watery, remove the chicken and boil the sauce until it becomes thick and syrupy.

I have only ever had this with couscous and I think it complements the meal perfectly. Give it a go - and let me know how it turns out!