Monday 16 April 2012

"Qu'ils mangent de la brioche"


If I’m totally honest, I wasn’t particularly fussed about what living in France with French bread on my doorstep every day meant when I first moved here. To my utter shame, I spent most of my first term buying sliced bread; walking past the beautiful “Pavé Nature”, baguettes and similarly delicious bread on offer that had just been taken from the oven, heading instead for Harry’s American Sandwich Pain de Mie (wholewheat, I’m not an animal). That surely is grounds to chuck me out of the country. Like all sorts of things about life down here – beautiful weather, going for dinner at 10pm, sitting at a café that’s spilling out onto the streets – I’ve only really started appreciating French bread in the past few months. For a mere 29 cents, you can buy a demi baguette; and okay, if you leave it overnight it’ll be rock-solid and will cover your floor with breadcrumbs if you try to slice it – but surely that’s just further incentive to make sure you eat all of that baguette in one day. Challenge accepted. It is more expensive to buy a demi-baguette every day or a fresh loaf every week than it is to buy sliced bread – but there is a massive difference, and you know what? I’m willing to pay that little bit more every day for the two months I’ve got here.

Maybe it’s because it’s because we non-French have this stereotypical image of a French person in a striped Breton top with a silly moustache carrying a baguette under their arm – but bread seems to be as much a part of the way of life here as passive smoking and striking. Coming back from the supermarket on the tram, I heard two ladies grumbling about how the price of a baguette had gone up three cents since last week, whilst a guy in his twenties ripped massive chunks of bread from the baguette in his shopping bag and ate, head nodding in time to the music he was listening to. Any given shopping trolley will contain at least one baguette, and even the cheapest restaurant will bring you a basket of bread that will be refilled whenever it looks like it’s running low absolutely free of charge. The idea that you might have to ask for bread in a restaurant– and then pay for it – is utterly horrifying to a French person. For added shock, I suggest you also add that very few places will bring a bottle of water to your table, and only reluctantly after trying to sell you a very expensive bottle of mineral water.

No matter how you slice it (oh I’m so funny), bread is incredibly important to the French, and why on earth shouldn’t it be? Got some sauce left on your plate? Mop it up with your bread. Can’t be bothered to wash your only knife? Use your bread to push it onto your fork. Fingers a bit greasy from the olive oil on your salad dressing? Bread napkin. Need to soak up some of your Merlot? Bread. Just want to eat bread? Bread. Good luck being gluten-intolerant down here, folks.

What I’m really trying to say is – the bread in France is amazing in a way that I cannot fully explain; and the way it is entrenched in French culture only serves to ensure that it stays that way. And thank goodness for that. Forget Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité – the French motto should be Vive les boulangères et vive le pain.